Got Questions?

Selecting the right options when selecting the right hair replacement solution can bring about questions and concerns.  At Z Hair, we are here for you!  If you don’t find you question amongst the information provided below, don’t hesitate to reach out.  You can contact us or even connect with Bruce to inquire about a One-to-One consultation.

Learn more about a personal session with Bruce Zwelsky. 

The standard length for an Z Hair System runs up to 6″.  If you would like a peice that is longer than 6″ we will be glad to accomodate you.  Please feel free to contact us for a custom quote.

Get a Custom Quote

Information about the base, or foundation of your hairpiece or wig. This is the fabric or membrane to which the hairs are attached.

SKUNameInfo:Former or common name.
120Paris LightBest choice for most clientsSwiss Lace.
130Paris RobustStronger than #100French lace.
140Paris with mono

Same as Paris Paris Robust but with strong poly around back and sides.

French lace.
220Skin Light

Very thin Polyskin with no knots

NG.
230Skin Medium

Thin Polyskin but 5 Mil thicker. Stronger than Skin Light and easier for daily removal

Mirage or RAGE.

 

9 out of 10 orders are for #120 Light Paris and for good reason.

Tip: The lighter the density (meaning less hair) and base materials translates to a more natural look.

For younger men, such as teens and gentleman in their early 20s, a heavier density may be helpful.  Please feel free to reach out with any questions.

The key to ordering your own hairpiece

With a custom hair system, including a template with your order is the best way to ensure that your new hairpiece will be an accurate fit.

Having someone assist you may be helpful. An assistant’s extra pair of hands will really make this a lot easier.

Items required:

  • Clear Plastic Food Wrap,  for example,  Saran Wrap or Glad Wrap
  • A roll of clear plastic adhesive tape  such as Scotch Tape
  • Clear heavy-duty packaging tape or reinforced strapping tape. (Important as this will not shrink over time)
  • A permanent marker and a washable marker or grease pencil
  • Water
  • Scissors
  • Hand mirror and wall mirror.

Making the Template

Draw your new hairline on your skin from temple to temple using a grease pencil or washable felt marker. If you will be using tape at the front of your new hair system, use the same shape tape as a stencil for this line. The center front of your hairline can be found above the eyebrows.  If you raise your eyebrows, find the point where you do not have wrinkles when your brow is furrowed (raised).  This is a good place for the edge of your hair system.  In the future you may make minor adjustments to find the most perfect fit.

making a template 1

  • Dampen your hair to help it lay flat against your head. (If necessary)
  • Pull a large section of wide clear plastic food wrap such as Saran Wrap over your head from ear to ear, so that it covers the balding area and beyond. (You can tape two narrower strips together if that’s all you have.)
  • Use transparent tape such as 3/4″ Scotch Tape to go around your head to make a rigid border. The plastic food wrap should now be snug over your balding area.
  • Use the permanent marker to draw your hairline and the border between your hair and your balding area. This line will be the perimeter of the hairpiece

making a template 2

  • This is the most important stage: After the lines are drawn to your satisfaction, you should reinforce the template with wide clear glossy packing tape so it is thick, rigid and strong and locked into the exact shape of the top of your head. Templates that are not stiffened with tape are not reliably accurate. Also paper masking tape is no good as the overlaps slip and the shape and size then changes.
  • The template should cover the bald area right to the edge with no gap but should not overlap the real hair on your head. The area of the hairpiece that has hair will exactly match the entire size of your template. Your hairpiece will not be attached with stretching or tension as that would make your scalp ripple.
  • Remove it from your head and cool off.
  • If necessary go over the perimeter line with the marker again and mark the front with a letter F.

making a template 3

  • Cut away the trim so that all that remains is the mold of your area to be covered. Anything over that line, we don’t need. Cut it off.
  • Place it back onto your head and check all around using a wall mirror and a hand mirror.

making a template 4

  • Now the trimmed template is back on your head you can see and feel if it is the size and shape that you want. If for some reason it does not match the contour of your head, start over.
  • If the template does not extend to the growing hair edge at the back, no need to start over, just extend the edges with heavy duty parcel tape and trim it to a size larger than the first cut.
  • If you have graying hair, it it easier to make a template when you’ve just dyed it dark as the gray roots can be hard to see through the plastic.

making a template 5

  • Please use the permanent marker to write your name and a date on the template.
  • If you will always be parting your hair the same way, that’s how we’ll manufacture your hairpiece so place the mold on your head and draw in the part with a line.
  • If you are measuring for a full wig and are having difficulty making a template, you can also provide standard measurements using the wig measuring diagram found in the photographs section of the website, under materials.

Temple pairs:

The factory charges one price for any size up to 10″ X 8″. This is one reason why we ask for a template to be made a certain way for temple pairs. The other reason is that a small triangular template can be in any of three directions, or six if it’s flipped. Therefore the way to do this is to make a bridge template, and we can cut off the bridge later.

Using a cosmetic pencil or washable marker on your skin, draw in your area of coverage at each temple and connect them with a thin stripe (the bridge) a few millimeters wide. Make the template to that shape and cut it out, and mark the front edge with an F. Mark your left with an L and your right with an R and write the word top on the hair side.

Sending it in:

This type of template can be folded flat and sent in a flat envelope. This always gets it here safely. Leaving it large and three dimensional and sending it in a bigger box increases the chance of loss. In some cases empty boxes have been received. There is no need for a box, and padding etc. Fold it flat please.

General Info

Cutting a Z Hair System ready-made stock hairpiece down to your exact size is done by you, the client.

Z Hair supplies ready-made stock units that are 9.75 inches long by 7.75 inches wide with an A shaped hairline.

Check your color, density, etc for personal satisfaction before you resize. Resizing also means the unit cannot be returned to us.

If you have a template, attach the stock unit over the top with tape, aligning the front edge, Then use a razor blade or scalpel to reduce the size around the sides and back, from underneath. Not using scissors means you cannot accidentally cut the edge hairs short.

See our “Making a Template” instructions for making your own.

To resize you will need:

  • your template
  • hairpiece tape
  • scalpel or razor blade

To make a template you will need:

  • Food cling wrap such as Saran or Glad
  • thick, clear, heavy-duty parcel tape (paper masking tape will fail to hold shape)
  • a marker
  • scissors

see our instructional info page for details

  • All transaction pages are secure
  • Yes we can keep your template and hair sample in our China office to speed up reordering.
  • Yes we can duplicate/copy your old unit
  • Your email address is not shared and your privacy is assured.
  • See current delivery estimates under the customer service menu
  • Use email for support.

As with a fine wine or a new automobile, the price of a hair system is most directly related to the quality of the product.  Let’s be honest, the reason that you are reading this right now is because you desire to take complete  control in the quest to look your best.  Z Hair Systems knows this and does not take your wants for granted.

We carefully select the absolute best in materials and offer unmatched support to help you achieve your goals.  All the while, we want to make sure that a Z Hair System delivers a great value both in price and performance.  If we were not absolutely certain that any of our hair systems could withstand the most intimate of moments, we wouldn’t offer them.

Our pricing is palatable for those that are serious about their appearence yet our quality surpasses that of even those in the industry that charge 30- 40% more.  We want to be more than an online retailer, but a consultant that walks with you in this season of life where the best you has yet to come.

  • Keep Lace Release, Adhesive Remover etc out of your eyes.
  • Residue can be removed from lace by pushing it firmly over a mirror or cling wrap.
  • Release thoroughly before pulling off so you don’t lose hairs
  • Clean all traces of removers/cleaners out of the base to enable to next adhesion to work.
  • If its a lace unit, drip or squirt lace release or alcohol through the lace from a very close distance to the head, then wait for it to work and then lift off the unit
  • If it’s a non-porous base, such as polyskin, raise an edge and spray under the unit, progressively peeling back the base until it’s off.
  • Adhesive remover will remove any remaining adhesive and residue, alcohol or lace release will remove adhesive remover, and water will remove alcohol. Then shampoo the unit, roll it in a towel to absorb most of the wetness.
  • Cleaning your hair piece and the covered area is a very important part of the process.
  • Use a mild shampoo, or better yet, a “cleansing conditioner” in place of normal shampoo.
  • A good leave in Conditioner is okay. Some say it loosens knots and softens hair.
  • Don’t use hot water.
  • Roll your unit in a towel to absorb out most of the water and it should be almost dry.
  • Do not use any hot styling tools
  • If shampooing in place without removing, use as cool a temperature as you can tolerate. It’s just as quick to remove and replace and much more effective.
  • Don’t hesitate to remove very frequently for best personal hygeine
  • Use common sense when brushing or combing so you don’t pull on the hairs and lose some.
  • A soft boar bristle brush will condition the hair texture just by gently brushing it.
  • Push the bottom of the lace firmly across a mirror or plastic food wrap to pull out any stubborn glue residue (The Mirror Slide)
  • To prevent “wash-through”, where some hairs make their way to the bottom side of the lace or monofilament unit, drag or slap your unit through the lather in a sink of shampoo and lukewarm or cool water is such a way that the flow of liquid is from bottom through the lace to the top.
  • Rinse with the water going from bottom to top, and then gently roll the unit in a towel to absorb most of the water.
  • To remove sticky, tacky residue or dissolved tapes from delicate polyskin bases, soak the residue with adhesive remover then push the underside down a mirror (The Mirror Slide). To avoid having to clean the mirror, cover it in Saran food wrap first.
  • As it pertains to shampoo and conditioner, we recommend researching shampoos and find the least-harsh types of detergents available, and use cold water. Condition your hair as needed, but avoid soaking your knots in slippery conditioner because that can accelerate shedding.
  • See product descriptions to help you to decide which tapes, glue and cleaners to choose
  • For each and every user, experimentation and familiarization are essential.
  • You could be allergic to some products. Some people react to the vinyl in tapes and others react to some glues or even the adhesive remover. Most people have no issues whatsoever. See the bottom of the Adhesives and Accessories info page.
  • Alignment and positioning: hairlines are in different positions from person to person, and even if yours is only a memory, you will look better with the hairline is in a certain ideal position. It’s normal for everyone to attach a bit too far forward or back now and again, but a tip that works is, remove your hairpiece and feel your head. If it feels like like your fingers are on your forehead/face, move them back to a point where it feels like they are touching your scalp. More often then not, your sensory nerves in your forehead and your scalp will hold the key to your proper hairline point.

Types of hair

 

Indian (default).
Remy Indian.
European Remyplus $70 USD small, plus $100 USD large
Virgin (color as grown)plus $70 USD small, plus $100 USD large
Chinese Straightplus $70 USD small, plus $100 USD large
Yaki Texture Straightplus $70 USD small, plus $100 USD large
Synthetic.

Colors and pricing

Some lighter hair colors carry a surcharge. The order form will add $30 for colors #22R, #30R, #60RYH, #613. Human gray costs +$30 also.

Knot bleaching

We bleach knots enough to help hide them, but not so much that the hair sheds too fast. It’s a narrow target range and we usually hit the sweet spot.

Hair and Knots (a large amount of information!)

  • Aways wash out swimming pool water a.s.a.p.
  • Knot bleaching is a way to minimize the dotty appearance that can be seen when dark hair is tied to lace.
  • Donor hair does not come from religious ceremonies and it is not un-kosher. It’s harvested from hair brushing, no hair is cut off the donors, with the exception of “Mongolian” and Virgin, described below.
  • Don’t specify knotting, we use the least visible possible in all situations.
  • Indian hair is the best for hairpieces and wigs.
  • Remy Indian hair is (arguably) too big in cross section, but is good for tighter perms. Remy hair is simply less processed. It is not virgin hair from cut-off pony tails (See Mongolian below).
  • Chinese hair, the first choice for totally straight hair.  Extra charge.
  • Mongolian hair, is Indian pony tail hair, but processed, so not the same as virgin hair Longer lengths of this hair are in very short supply and often unavailable. Ask us about availability.
  • Chinese (naturally very straight) hair is available for a surcharge. Longer lengths of this hair are in very short supply and often unavailable. Ask for availability. Extra charge.
  • Virgin European hair is not available. Beware vendors of this, as it is usually not as described.
  • Virgin Indian hair is available, this hair is not as manageable for hairpieces as processed hair. The cuticles may cause tangling. Extra charge.
  • Virgin Chinese hair is sometimes available, this hair is not as manageable for hairpieces as processed hair. The cuticles may cause tangling. Extra charge.
  • Brazilian hair is only a marketing term. It is just Indian hair given a different name by some sellers.
  • Indonesian hair is also only a marketing term. It is just Indian hair given a different name by some sellers.
  • Synthetic hair makes the best gray for the first 30%. Above 30% we blend in white yak hair by default because a higher percentage of synthetic gray does not look or feel right. Human gray can appear yellow and it is very over-processed because the donor hair is dark brown or black. However synthetic gray can look unnaturally bright in UV black light. If you frequent UV lighted rooms please mention it when you order and we will not include the synthetic gray and use yak instead.
  • Human or Yak gray, be aware that if you recolor your unit, this gray will turn the same color as the other hair. Synthetic gray will stay gray after you recolor a unit.
  • We can often texture-match your hair-sample and try to match any type of hair regardless of ethnic origin.
  • Evenly distributed highlights will change your overall color blend and may cause a mismatch with your real hair
  • Spot highlights look like streaks or chunks except the color goes all the way down through the knot.
  • You can send pictures if you are confused about highlight percentages.
  • Advice for Synthetic only: Do not use hot water to wash synthetic hair, including gray hair which is almost always synthetic. It is better to wash it off the head in a sink of cool water than in a warm shower. Do not use a hair dryer or any other dry heat device or the synthetic hair will be damaged (melted).
  • Avoid heat blasts from barbecues, sauna rocks etc. For extra care, get a satin pillowcase so there is no abrasion.

We abandoned those confusing non-standardized, so-called “percentages” years ago. Here are descriptions of densities:

DensityComments
XLExtra-LightVery realistic , shows scalp and looks very natural on men who have lost their hair
XL-LExtra-Light to LightA good choice for a bit less transparency
LLightStill realistic but with good full coverage
L-LMLight to Medium-LightStarting to lose any glimpse of scalp
LMMedium-LightThis is the density of many company’s stock units. It is a bit too much for many men

Light density is right for most wearers.

We manufacture crowns, parts and hairlines correctly so that so you do not need to order different density in different areas on your unit.

  • Tip Number One: We recommend one same density all over.
  • The zones: Front, Temples, Top, Sides, Crown, Back, refer to parts of the head, or parts of a full wig. In most cases, smaller hairpieces only have three of these zones with perhaps a tiny bit of temples and back.
  • Again, we very strongly recommend one density all over. It will please you more than any more-complicated concept.
  • Density can vary a bit up or down. Hand-made human-made, hairpieces and wigs always vary a little.
  • We can advise on density based on a clear photo of you or a model.
  • IMPORTANT: For density below light-to-medium choose all one-material such as all-lace to avoid the structure being visible through the hair in any situation.
  • Z Hair Systems do not come with a final hairstyle. You are advised to see your stylist to make the best of your new hair.
  • The length you ask for is approximate. Very short hair cannot be handled by the technicians who make the units for you.
  • Plan on getting a haircut when you receive your order.
  • There are no fixed directions on lace. You can redirect with a brush. After a certain haircut, you may find it best to keep that style, but the new unit can be changed.
  • Injected polyskin has a fixed unchangeable direction.

hairstyles for hairpieces

 

 

freestyle

Freestyle is generally forward but can be styled many ways including back. The crown is not defined but it is somewhere near the center line, and there are no gaps or partings. Freestyle is the most popular choice and can be used as a starting point for most hairstyles

sean connery with pompadour      James Dean with pompadour

Pompadour Freestyle as seen here on Sean Connery and James Dean, is similar to Freestyle in that there is no defined crown and the hair on top comes forward, but then at the front it elevates. With long hair length this creates a Rockabilly look, and with short hair it gives a neat top with a fashionable spiked up hairline. There are many variations possible with a Pompadour Freestyle unit.

spiky

Spiky usually means all the hair stands up and is directed away from the scalp. It can look punky or it can look militaristic depending on the amount of texturizing product applied, and on the length of the hair. With curly hair, it can give an elevated riot of curls. In actual fact, the factory treats spiky orders in much the same way as freestyle orders, because the spiky effect is not part of the manufacturing process, but rather part of the wearer’s haircut and styling.

closed part

Center crown, left crown and right crown have a defined crown. All the hair is directed away from one point, either in the center of the crown or to one side, and therefore you will always see bare scalp at the crown point. We usually boost the density a bit at the crown point so it does not look too bald in that spot, but if you don’t like that spot to be there, get freestyle instead.

back

If you order back, or comb back or brush back or flat back, all the hair will be back and there will be no crown.

open part

Left part, right part and center part feature an open parting along which you can see the base or the scalp through the base, depending on if it’s lace or a skin base. The parting really has to stay in the same place where the factory puts it and it should not be moved to either side afterward, because special knotting and density considerations are designed into the hairpiece.

The generic style illustrations above are for descriptive purposes only and do not depict actual hairpieces. The style/direction you order is your starting point for the final hairstyle that you and your stylist create. Hairpieces come uncut and unstyled and always need to be cut-in.

  • Natural Indian hair is slightly wavy, but you can have very straight hair or very curly hair and anything in between.
  • The tighter perms do certainly adversely affect the silky quality of the hair. It is unavoidable due to chemistry.

The wavelength below is shown in centimeters. 1.0 cm is sometimes shown as 10 mm.

Wavelength or curl size is a literal measurement of a wet curl. if you have hair with some length and wet a section, you can measure your natural wavelength. If not just remember 1 cm really is 1 cm.

Wavelengths of 2.5 cm and longer are achieved with a water-based perm and wavelengths or 2.2 cm and shorter are achieved with a chemical perm.

Here is the list of standard perm-rod sizes. The descriptive names beside each (eg. light curl, very wavy) are not standardized and for visualization only:

  • Tight Afro 0.2cm (custom tool)
  • Afro 0.4cm (yellow rod)
  • Loose Afro 0.5 to 0.6cm (red rod)
  • Tightest Curl 0.8cm (blue rod)
  • Tight Curl 1.0cm (pink rod)
  • Very Curly 1.2cm to 1.3cm (gray rod)
  • Curly 1.5cm (white rod)
  • Loose Curl 1.8cm (lavender rod)
  • Light Curl 2.2cm (purple rod)
  • Very Wavy 2.5cm (orange rod)
  • Wavy 3.0cm (green rod)
  • Light Wave 3.2cm (custom tool)
  • Body Wave 3.8cm (custom tool)
  • Straight 5cm (Natural Indian hair averages 5cm wave without treatment)
  • Chinese hair and synthetic hair can be ordered with zero curl.
  • It is human hair, so you can style out the curl to some extent, or reactivate it with water or a styling product. Once again, it’s human hair so it behaves like the hair that grows, or used to grow, from your head. Like any perm, it may relax over time if brushed too much or blow dried.
  • Donor hair is fairly straight. The permanent wave process may not be entirely permanent. Even synthetic hair, which is curled with dry steam, will relax to a straighter form over time at approximately the same rate as human hair. The same care procedures will prolong this curl also.
  • If the curl is, for example 1.0cm (one centimeter), then it means that if the hair is long enough to form a circle when it is wet, the circle will have a 1 centimeter diameter. The curl choices represent the diameter of a wet curl.
  • Most clients take care of the cut-in themselves after they receive their order, but there is nothing quite like the services of a great stylist to make you look your best. Haircut tips are listed here.
  • In general you do not have to expose yourself by removing your unit in public. You usually go to a stylist with the unit firmly attached and it’s still on when you get home. So don’t fear sitting in a glass fronted public salon and being embarrassed in front of the other clients. You just have to face the consultation with your stylist and be confident that they understand the sensitive nature of your situation.
  • Due to the personal nature of hair-loss, many clients self-cut at home with with clippers, guides and mirrors. We highly recommend you spend a couple of hours researching on YouTube to see how you can avoid going out for that haircut altogether. Nothing beats the satisfaction and savings of ordering online and cutting your own hair!
  • If using a regular stylist or barber, ensure that the edge hair is left longer for the blend. This is the main issue with going to a regular stylist. The most common disaster is the edge hairs get cut too short during tapering, blending, or fading. But if the stylist is made aware that the unit’s edge hairs must remain longer, they should have the ability to avoid making this mistake.
  • Cutting a hairpiece or wig is not the same as cutting growing hair. Straight-razor haircuts, which can be nice on growing hair, look lousy on hairpieces and you end up with something that looks like feathery split ends. Point cutting each elevation with shears or clippers works better, so politely tell your stylist you don’t approve the use of a razor during your haircut.
  • Scissors over comb and clippers over comb are recommended, but again, for side and back blending, these techniques have a high risk of making the unit’s edge hairs too short, so be aware and make sure that such blending and graduation does not cause the hairs at the edge of the unit be cut too short. You need this edge hair for a natural transition from unit to real hair.
  • Try to leave an extra couple of millimeters length because you can revive the texture and feel of an older unit by giving it a new haircut after a couple of months of wear. This tip alone can stretch the lifespan of an old piece by months.
  • To reduce density, consider sending the unit in for a factory repair because if thinning shears are used, you’ll still have the original knot density at the root and it will look awful and move terribly.
  • If you want to try going it alone, AT YOUR OWN RISK, some things that are good to have at home include:
  • a vacuum cleaner,
  • the best clippers you can afford, for example Oster 76, or Andis Masters, and a full set of guard combs. (With a salon cut-in costing up to $250 every time, you can afford to buy the best clippers once).
  • A comb, light colored plastic if your hair is dark, and black if you are blond or gray.
  • a three-way mirror, or just a hand mirror and a wall mirror.
  • a man-size Styrofoam mannequin head and a clamp stand, plus wig T pins, for comfortably cutting a unit you don’t have on your head.

Quick and easy self hairpiece pompadour haircut!

  1. Cut your real-growing side and back hair short with clippers and guards. Taper to #1 if you like at the bottom but leave at least #4 length near the top. Do this with dry hair.
  2. Attach new hairpiece to Styrofoam head with wig T-pins.
  3. Wet and then towel dry the hair.
  4. Hold the Styro-head upside down and shake the hair down.
  5. With shears (scissors) in your dominant hand, cut down the length, leaving the front longer. Hair falls to floor.
  6. After attaching the new unit (dry hair), take the side and back edges down a bit with clippers and a guard that is one level longer than the top of your taper.

This will not rival a $200 hairpiece cut-in (actually it probably will!) but it costs nothing. and it takes ten minutes.

How short can I cut my hair?

Hairpieces:

This will depend on your natural hair’s density. Assuming you have a hairpiece and your own hair at the back and sides, then if your real hair’s density is light-to-medium or higher, you may be able to cut your own hair down to a #3 clipper comb, or 3/8″. If your real hair is light density you should not go below a #4 clipper comb or 1/2″. If your real hair is cut too short with insufficient density then there will probably be some kind of visible line where the hairpiece hair overlaps.

For the hairpiece hair, you need that hair to be a certain length to hide the base it is attached to. An inch is usually about as short as you should go.

In general blending in a hairpiece benefits from an inch on the unit and 1/2″ on the head or it’s just too difficult to hide the transition.

Wigs:

For full wig, until a better type of base in invented, you can forget about ultra-short fades. You usually need an inch or so to disguise the fact that it is a wig. The lower the density, the more length must remain to maintain the illusion. With heavier densities you may be able to get away with 1/2″ or even 3/8″ on a thin poly material.

Hair Stylists and Barbers.

We had a short list of salons and stylists listed in this position on the site for years but it was always going out of date so we no longer list service providers. We encourage you to manage your template-making and ordering by yourself. Any very good normal stylist can cut in your hairpiece.

  • If you experience irritation or any reaction, let your skin recover before continuing to attach hair, if possible. If not possible, do so at night, sleeping without the unit adhered. Time and air will clear it up. Such cases are very rare.
  • The daily use of adhesives and solvents on the skin has not been officially studied for any long term health risks but it should be known that a small minority of people are sensitive to the chemicals found in various adhesive products and solvents. It is possible that using these products year after year on a daily basis could have some negative effect on any user’s health. Until proper scientific studies have been conducted we all use these products at our own risk, and look absolutely fabulous as we do so.
  • Our adhesives and accessories are made by American manufacturers who generally do not provide an MSDS due to proprietary blends. The common ingredients will have MSDS which can be found with a web search.
  • Due to distribution logistics, glue and tape sales are separate from hairpiece orders, and these two categories cannot be combined in the same shopping cart.

Oil Resistant White Glue

  • Our well known, best reviewed, all time favorite, hairpiece glue
  • See our virtual online label for more details

Stick It! Tape

  • Strong adhesion tape.
  • A no-residue tape that releases cleanly with isopropyl alcohol.
  • The manufacturer says this will hold for as long as you can stand it, but we recommend frequent removal for hygiene and health reasons.

No Residue Sunshine Tape

  • Very Similar to Stick It! but with a slightly less aggressive hold, so better for more frequent removals.
  • Remove the hairpiece before washing it, and then use cool or cold water
  • Use good mild shampoo and conditioner
  • Use argan oil, sparingly, for extra restoration
  • Release the lace fro the adhesive thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol so you don’t pull knots out
  • Wash lace with water flow from bottom to top to prevent wash through of hairs
  • In case of highly chlorinated or very hard tap water, use bottled or filtered water
  • Do not use a hair dryer or any hot tools
  • Do not force out tangles. Comb the ends first and then go a bit lower with each stroke
  • Try a smooth pillowcase such as Satin or high end cotton

Extreme Rescues:

  • Frayed lace: If you suddenly see yourself in a mirror with the sun hitting your hairline and there is an uneven frayed mess of polyester not in contact with your skin, you may have frayed lace. This can usually be rescued and see you through until your new unit is available. With good lighting, a black background and your best eyewear, carefully trim off the frayed lace edge with sharp scissors and create a new hairline. It will not be as nice as the original edge but it will not catch the light like the frayed polyester.
  • Torn membrane: Until you get your next unit or have a factory repair, use strong single-sided adhesive tape to bind the two sides of the tear together and prevent it from spreading and becoming a split-in-two unit.
  • Distressed human hair: If you have been a bit careless with harsh shampoo, sunshine, chlorinated swimming pools or general abrasion and your hair feels dry and rough, use a keratin or silicone conditioning treatment and hot water to deeply moisturize the hair and then cold rinse it to close the cuticle layer back down. This will smooth it out until you can get your next new unit into service.

GLUE:  Oil Resistant White Glue,   Bottle size: (various)

This web page is a virtual, online, product label, for the purpose of discretion, due to the personal, and often secretive, nature of hair-loss.

OIL RESISTANT WHITE GLUE

Ingredients: Acrylic Polymer and water, when wet. Contains no water when dry. Non-Toxic.Clean up glue with soap and water when still wet/uncured. Use skin-safe solvent when dry.
Intended Use: Designed for the attachment of polyester lace, or polyurethane skin, hairpiece bases, to bare skin.Other uses: General adhesive for porous or non-porous materials
Use on clean, dry, non-oily, bare, scalp, in temperatures over 60 F / 15 C. Best results if applied in lower humidityProduct in it’s uncured form (in bottle) is irreversibly ruined if exposed to freezing temperatures 0 C or below
APPLICATION: Apply one single coat, as thin as possible, to the scalp. Wait for white color to turn to clear as it dries, press lace down with teeth of comb. Full strength develops over the next hour.Note: Additional coats or thicker coats will reduce effectiveness. Apply with fingertip, spreading thinly, and then wash finger before glue dries. Close cap fully.
To remove the hairpiece, release bond with isopropyl alcohol.MADE IN USA. Manufacturer and exact formula are confidential. MSDS same as for any white glue.